Capanna Margherita 4.554 mt.

Ascent to Capanna Margherita (4.554 m.)

An ascent that will never loose it’s fascination, traversing a chain of breathtaking peaks. The Monte Rosa consists of a group of majestic peaks of over 3600 and 4000 metres. The poetic interpretation of the name “rosa” has now made way to it’s dialect origin – “Roese” which means glacier in the dialect of the region (“patois”). The refuge “Capanna Margherita” is in fact the highest refuge in Europe and poplular with mountaineers as a rest point and observatory.

Reaching Capanna Margherita

Day 1:
meeting point – Staffal, at the departure of the telecabine Gabiet at 2 pm.
After a brief equipment check, we begin the ascent up to Passo dei Salati using the lift system. We begin by walking for aprox 2 – 3 hours along a flat exposed footpath which then traverses the small Indren glacier, arriving at the Città di Mantova Refuge where we have dinner and stay overnight.
Day 2: after breakfast, using headlamps we begin the ascent to the saddle of Colle of Lys (4248mt) traversing the Lys glacier. From here we can admire the higher peaks of Zumstein (4561mt), Dufour (4633 mt – the highest peak of the Monte Rosa) and the vertiginous north face of the Lyskamm.
Continuing onto to the Capanna Margherita, at the peak of Punta Gniffeti (4554mt).
Time of ascent is between 5 – 6 hours, the descent is along the same path as the ascent with the possibility of a variant from the Mantova Refuge downwards. (3 – 4 hours).

Alpinists with a normal fitness level, or excursionists in search of new objectives. Due to the time spent at an altitude of over 3500 metres, it is recommended to have already climbed at least one other peak of 4000mt – for example, Gran Paradiso or Breithorn.

Weatherproof shoes with the possibility to attach crampons - ice axe – harness – backpack - water bottle – sunglasses - sun protection cream : min. protection factor 8 – anorak - wind jacket – woollen hat - gloves – socks (minimum 3) – undervest (minimum 3) – long underwear – pullover - change of T shirt – camera – healdlamp.

Group size: Maximum of 5 pers. per Guide.
Period: June, July, August, September.

Prices available on demand

Included in the cost of the tour are: the assistance of an alpine guide; use of equipment for the group (ropes, pitons, karabiners); professional insurance in case of accident.
Not included in the cost of the tour are: board and lodging; the technical equipment rental (ice axe and crampons – about 10 euro per day); transfers (the organisation can provide for a minibus if request).

Cost of refuge: approx. 40,00 Euro half board.

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